I finally had a good night's sleep. I got to bed around 1:00 a.m. and slept soundly until 9:30 this morning. And because I didn't have anything scheduled for today, I was able to take things slow for the first time since I arrived in Europe. I got dressed and went to the dining room for breakfast. But I woke up with my old familiar travel complaint: an upset stomach. So I chose my breakfast foods carefully and had eggs, turkey, a banana and yogurt. I was still feeling a bit icky when I reached my room again to get ready to go out.
I shaved, showered and changed and was out the door by 11:00 a.m. I walked casually downtown, making several stops along the way. I had already resolved that today I would visit the Suomenlinna island fortress, just off the coast of Helsinki. But as I was not rushed, I took my time getting there, enjoying the sights along the way.
I made my first stop at the Stockmann department store, just to have a quick look around. I noticed they had a large stack of reindeer hides for sale "for the wall". I then stopped in the electronics section, looking for some Finnish music. I was hoping the young attendant could recommend some current Finnish artists, maybe a collection of Finnish dance music, but he admitted that he is really only into jazz. When I asked him who the most popular Finnish artist was at the moment, he said it was a singer of Finnish raeggae. I can't say that I was too enthused. But as I looked at the displays, I saw CDs by Rajaton, and I only then remembered that they were Finnish. I saw Rajaton when they came to Ottawa last year to sing some of their songs, including amazing a capella versions of classic ABBA tunes. So, I grabbed a couple of Rajaton CDs and made my way to the cash.
Because my stomach was still bothering me, and because I had had a late breakfast, I didn't stop for lunch and simply boarded the ferry to Suomenlinna around 1:00 p.m. After about 20 minutes, the ferry docked at the island, and I began to explore this Unesco World Heritage site.
The Fortress of Suomenlinna -- originally known as Sveaborg -- was built by the Swedes in 1748 to better defend Swedish interests in the Baltic Sea, and particularly to defend the Swedish kingdom from Russian expansion. The fortress eventually fell to the Russians, who held it until Finland declared independence in 1917. Even after that date, the Russians maintained a presence at the fortress for a few decades before it became Finnish.
Suomenlinna is actually four islands connected by bridges, and it is possible to explore the island and its military history on foot. One of the most impressive sights is the Suomenlinna church (Suomenlinnan Kirkko), one of the only churches in the world whose steeple also serves as a lighthouse. Other sights included the last remaining submarine Finland was allowed to have once a treaty was signed in 1948. The embankments, ramparts and defences were really interesting and I took several pictures. Around 2:00, I was feeling a bit better, so I stopped to get a bottle of water and a croissant. I sat outside the small cafe where I bought these, and shared my croissant with two wild ducks who approached me. The female was a lot more fearless than her mate and would come right up to me. She even plucked a crust of croissant from between my fingers. I made sure her mate also got his fair share of croissant. When I had finished, I realized that I was entirely in that moment for the time it lasted. I had communed with nature. And I felt so peaceful. This is not something I get to do everyday!
I left the island around 3:30 p.m. and got back to the mainland around 4:00. I walked along the north esplanade area of the city, in a very leisurely way, and eventually came to a small champagne bar. This was fun: it was actually a Veuve Cliquot champagne stand. So I got myself a glass, and then a second one, sat outside on the terrasse and wrote my Helsinki postcards to family and friends.
At the hotel again, the receptionist recommended that I have dinner at a nearby restaurant, which is well-known for its seafood. When I got there and looked at the menu, I was actually more tempted by their meat dishes. This was a good sign: my appetite was back and my stomach was finally settled. So, I ordered poronkäristystä, perumanuusia ja karpaloita (sauteed reindeer, cranberries and mashed potatoes). The salad bar was also included in the price of the meal, and I also ordered a glass of Cabernet Sauvignon. Once again, my meal was superb. Finland has definitely got this going for it, that its food is astounding (despite the blandness of the first thing I ate here). But despite the amazing meal, the highlight of my evening in this restaurant was when they played Agnetha Fältskog's 2004 song, "When You Walk In The Room".
So I have come back to the hotel to add to my blog. And now that I am all caught up again, I am getting ready to go out. I discovered last night that there is a place downtown which is open tonight called KGB: Karaoke Gay Bar. It's got my name written all over it, so I am going to go give it a try. I am really hoping the songbook includes Swedish songs I know. We shall see...
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